• Splitting the light tan bridle leather, From 3.5mm to 2.7mm
  • Skiving each end avoids a bulky joint. Wrapping masking tape around a hex socket provided the desired diameter for the cylindrical form
  • Burnishing the dyed edges before glueing around the form
  • A head knife is perfect for cutting around the socket to make the end pieces
  • A pricking iron was also used to mark the stitches (at 3.38mm spacing) prior to glueing
  • The stitch line on the end pieces has a smaller circumference to the cylinder section. Therefore choosing a smaller stitch spacing (2.7mm in this case) brings the number of stitches on each piece nearer to parity and therefore reduces the number of dropped stitches needed
  • The tricky bit … accurate awl work is needed to angle it at 45 degrees while ensuring the blade enters and exits in the centre of both stitch marks
  • Lacking suitable curved needles, I had to cut down a couple or normal ones to be able to stitch from inside the end caps
  • Fettling the joining strap, the aim is to make it just long enough to get the second cap over the lens, once the first is in place
  • Not having seen the telescopic sights, it’s a case of keeping fingers crossed that the end caps and strap are the right sizes!
  • Adding the finishing touches with an edge creaser
  • Genaro kindly sent a photo of the fitted covers